The Saffron Flat Above River Market Still Holds Its Evening Shadows


This second-floor apartment above River Market remained occupied by the Al-Masri family for nearly three decades. The owner worked as a calligrapher and document inscription artist, producing ceremonial lettering, shop signs, and handwritten certificates for local businesses and families.
The flat developed around that work:
sitting room overlooking the market, compact kitchen, sleeping quarters toward the rear, and a dedicated lettering room used for inks, papers, and commissioned pieces.

The Ink Shelf

Several details remain throughout the property:

  • reed pens stored inside ceramic holders
  • pigment jars arranged by color
  • framed calligraphy samples leaning against walls
  • folded prayer rugs stacked beside cabinets
  • paper rolls secured with cotton ribbon
  • brass tea trays resting near the window
  • commission ledgers preserved beside the lettering table
    The surrounding market district changed significantly after a prolonged river contamination crisis affected local trade during the mid-2010s. Reduced tourism, sanitation concerns, and declining foot traffic gradually weakened many traditional businesses dependent on the waterfront.
    Several market stalls closed permanently.
    Upper residential units emptied soon afterward.

    The Al-Masri family reportedly remained longer than many neighboring merchants because commissions still arrived privately and much of the work could be completed from home. Eventually, however, reduced trade and building maintenance problems made remaining difficult.
    The family relocated to newer housing closer to relatives and commercial opportunities elsewhere.
    Most furniture and work materials remained behind.
    The flat has stayed closed since.

    Today the apartment still reflects its artistic routine.
    The pigments remain arranged by shade.
    The tea trays still rest beside the window.
    And along the ink shelf, several unfinished lettering drafts remain exactly where they were last placed.
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